Good beer: Worth fighting for


By Julie Brown-Micko

What’s more American than Coca-cola? Well, beer. “Pretty much everything in America that’s important is around beer,” quips David Rehr, president of the National Beer Wholesalers Association. And, when I think about it, he may be right. From backyard barbeques to major sporting events to your cousin’s wedding you’ll find…beer. And when you think about it, who’s brewing all this stuff and how does it get to your frosty mug? Beer Wars has some answers.

Turns out the beer industry has some of the same challenges as the food industry in America. It’s the big corporations versus the little guys with taste, quality and, of course, profits at stake. Director Anat Baron, one-time head of Mike’s Hard Lemonade, has the passion and access to make Beer Wars really pop with insider information. She delves into the hostile relationship of the well-established multinationals and small, independent brewers. It’s clear that she relishes the David-and-Goliath battle and casts the economic struggle in terms of the viability of the American dream. Thank goodness she leavens the story with plenty of good humor, eye candy and vintage cartoons.

Contrary to what beer drinkers may think, the traditional beer market is shrinking and times are uncertain. Imports, craft brews, even spirits and wines are making serious inroads into a once rock-solid market share. But the big three—Anheuser-Busch, Miller and Coors—hold 78 percent of the market while independent brewers hold only 5 percent. But that 5 percent is a lively, inventive, sometimes crazy fringe where a lot of the innovation happens. Baron features two eminently likeable independent brewers: Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Brewery, a kind of guy-next-door who’s successful brand is moving up, and Rhonda Kallman, formerly of Boston Brewing Company. Kallman struggles to launch her brand Moonshot, a beer laced with caffeine, beating the pavement and hustling for investors. You want Dogfish Head and Moonshot to succeed, but clearly the big corporations have them both in their sights.

In addition to the personal, Baron tries to give a historical overview of the beer business. One of the most interesting facets of the industry is the three-tier system put into place after Prohibition, establishing brewers, distributors/wholesalers and retailers as three distinct entities. Retailers may not buy beer from brewers directly: they must go through distributors. This three-tier system was meant to prevent the consolidation of power, but in reality, the corporate behemoths use money and pressure to limit small brewer access to distributors. Seventy percent of Anheuser-Busch distributors will deliver only A-B products. A strong beer lobby in Washington (who knew?) uses its deep pockets to maintain the status quo.

Of course, the battle rages on. It’s epic in scope but thankfully, Baron has a light touch and a fine sense of humor, timing, and drama. Whether you like big brew, craft brew, home brew or no brew, Beer Wars delivers good entertainment.