Fish first at the Zoo, two decades at
D’Amico Cucina, new baby at the Ivy

The ZOO SERVED UP A FISH SALUTE…on both sides of the glass. They said it would be an ocean-friendly event in Discovery Bay with a wine and fish tasting—a “fish first” in more ways than one at the Minnesota Zoo last month. And it was! Their first ever “Fish First” benefit for Seafood Watch was designed to raise our consumer awareness about the importance of buying seafood from sustainable sources. Seafood Watch and many of our own local chefs remind us to consider our sources, either fished or farmed, that can exist over the long-term without compromising our wild life species’ survival or the health of nature’s surrounding ecosystem which is considered sustainable.

There we were, surrounded by the walls of the glass aquariums filled to the ceiling with dozens of huge, strangely shaped, ocean-going fishes from dolphins to rays to other unusual, colorful wildlife literally swimming around us. Meanwhile, we were offered a glass for the wine tasting and directed to the various fish tasting tables set up in front of their swimming cousins. The Zoo partnered with a number of local executive chefs and restaurants for this October 4 event, including: executive chefs Rick Kimmes from Oceanaire Seafood Room, Paul Lynch from FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, Jorge Guzman from Tejas, George Snyder from McCormick & Schmick’s; Brian McCorkell from Lancer Catering for the Zoo; and Mark Awada from the Kincaid’s Fish, Chop & Steakhouse in St. Paul.

The evening, which also included cooking demonstrations and information about sustainable seafood, was co-sponsored by Kowalski’s Wine Market and Minnesota Monthly magazine, and was hosted by the food reporter Sue Zelickson. She reminded us to start with the wine table, where they offered a half-dozen tempting selections, each marked with the suggested chefs dish for the perfect pairing.

For example, if you tried the Riesling, they directed you to the Oceanaire table where Chef Kimmes was serving farm raised Kona yellowtail and sesame seared Kona kampachi. If you selected the pinot noir they would point you toward the Tejas table where you could sample the porcini and wild rice dusted Bay scallops from Chef Guzman. And from our Midwest region, Chef Lynch and his FireLake Grill team wowed guests with his preparation of grilled Star Prairie crimson trout, which was paired with a California zinfandel. I loved the French Vouvray, and when asked what was being paired with that choice, they pointed me to Chef Snyder and his McCormick & Schmick’s table, where he sautéed a red curry sauce to serve with steamed mussels. Delish and I was hooked. Oops—can you say hooked at a save the fish event? Well, yes, because we can still eat fish—if we consider the choices and sustainable options. As the result of this Seafood Watch partnership with the Zoo, (whose neat slogan is “Changing the way we see the world”) they passed out a handy Seafood Watch Pocket Guide for us to use when shopping or dining out. It reminded us we have the chance to make consumer choices that support fisheries and fish farms and suggests we check labels and ask questions. Visit www.seafoodwatch.org for details and a free download for the pocket guide.

TWO DECADES FOR D’AMICO CUCINA…Would you believe it was 20 years ago—1987—when brothers Richard and Larry D’Amico transformed the lower level, hidden corner of Butler Square (formerly the old La Tortue French restaurant) into the stunning D’Amico Cucina. Their gourmet, contemporary Italian cuisine was a big departure from the pizza, red sauce and pasta we had seen in this town (actually we just called it spaghetti in those days). Even then, their menus were way ahead of the curve and one of the first places I recall that offered such delicate Italian classics as gnocchi. Yum. They also promised to serve only Italian wines, from pinot grigio to grappa (forget about it) and the first place I recall trying both of those unique Italian classics—today they offer more than two dozen grappas.

Richard’s innovations in wine and Larry’s fresh menu creations grew as did the staff of young, eager chefs whose talents and training were honed at Larry’s elbow. They say their recipe for success has never changed because they have been true to their “high-end, innovative, Italian cuisine served by a warm, knowledgeable and polished staff.”

Look around town and you’ll spot many names and faces from staff that learned the ropes at D’Amico from the likes of redheaded J.P. Samuelson (now owner of jP American Bistro) to La Belle Vie/Solera Chef/Owner Tim McKee, to Isaac Becker, now owner/chef of 112 Eatery. A young Chef Jay Sparks, also a name and face I remember who blew our minds at Azur (their short-lived Gaviidae restaurant), went on to help open their Campiello and Lurcat concepts and more, as well as the D’Amico & Sons spots today and the newest Masa on the Nicollet Mall. Sparks has remained on board and is currently the executive chef overseeing all the D’Amico & Partners properties.

So now, after 20 years, we can see they have not only survived but thrived. Besides this flagship dining room, they continued to build more concepts and brands, even though they kept telling me they would retire after each new project. I’d say it ain’t gonna happen anytime soon. They’re having too much fun. Since its opening, Cucina has impressed critics on a local and national level, from a New York Times salute in 1988 written by locally-based Lynne Rossetto Kasper (foodie, cookbook author, MPR radio host) to stories featured in the Wall Street Journal’s “Power Tables” column by Jessie Knadler.

If it’s early November when you’re reading this, you may still have time to celebrate their 20th birthday dinner, too. The special 6-course menu will be offered thru November 10, created by Executive Chef John Occhiato, with selections from 1987’s menu. Dinner courses will range from a warm conserve of duck, apples and mint to ricotta cheesecake with candied fruit for dessert. The second course is a snapper wrapped in eggplant, followed by my favorite, gnocchi with goat cheese and a walnut sauce. The two meat courses include grilled baby chicken and pan-fried veal with tuna roe. It’s priced at $80 per person, with the option of a $55 wine flight to complement each course. You can also opt for a la carte choices if you see an old, irresistible favorite. Pass the gnocchi please. Happy Birthday!

IVY’S NEW BABY TO OPEN ITS DOORS…Over at the corner of Second Avenue South and 11th Street another birthday is nearly underway—well, maybe I should just say a birth. Foodies all around town eagerly await the arrival of a new, upscale restaurant at the historic Ivy Hotel, with the rebirth of the 1930 Ivy Tower restoration and remodeling. This would be a dream project for any city architect or preservation fan who loves to see us save a piece of history instead of putting up another parking ramp.

Lucky for us all, my old friend Jeff Laux, who also is a friend to old buildings (he headed up the restoration at the Lumber Exchange 20 years ago) beat the wrecking ball, and purchased the Ivy back in 2000 with partner Gary Benson. Now, after years of planning and lots of hard work, his dream of restoring this castle-like jewel of a tower into a luxury hotel complete with spa, restaurant and million dollar condos, has come true. The on-site construction, which began in 2004 is winding down as we approach 2008. When the buzz got louder and louder that Chef Steven Brown (previously at Restaurant Levain and Harry’s Food & Cocktails) was officially named executive chef this fall, I called over with hopes to stop by for a sneak peek before deadline.

Chef Brown and General Manager Dan Patterson, a great front-of-the-house man (previous local connections were Jax and Sidney’s as well as stints in Chicago) are heading up the roll-out under the guidance of Hotel Ivy GM Alister Glen. They say the stunning new two-level restaurant will be named Porter & Frye, with plans to open in December. They were still in the “hard-hat mode” when I stopped by for an update on the project. I admitted I have been one of the curious, waiting for a closer look at this new multi-tower project (18-story hotel and 25-story condo) adjoining the castle-like, nine-story Ivy. The transformation will bring us the promised Ivy Hotel (136 rooms) and residence (92 condos) under the umbrella of the Luxury Collection by Starwood. They’re famous for some of the world’s best properties from names like Sheraton and St. Regis, to Le Méridien, W Hotels and Westin. The Ivy is earmarked for the Luxury Collection line and their signature, destination Porter & Frye will be an irresistible place to stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner. A great bar spot too.

Brown, a Wyoming native, says they will build a menu on traditional, uncomplicated American classics ranging from fine cuts of prime meats to fresh fish and an array of creative, freshly prepared regional dishes. He has two decades of local farmer connections here too, after a history going back to his college days of working at both Lucia’s and Café Brenda when he studied at the University of Minnesota. This new, 7,000-plus square foot restaurant has design support from the project architects, Walsh Bishop. They took the street level corner of the 77-year old, poured-concrete tower, and opened up a grand staircase to the lower wine cellar and kitchen level. Some of the original subway brick and concrete pillars and walls will remain exposed, while tall corner windows bridge the two floors. A cozy 13-seat bar is promised along the inside wall on street level, which adjoins the planned courtyard, set back from the sidewalk—a perfect setting for outdoor dining next summer.

Even at their hectic pace and all the hours they are putting in, Brown and Patterson (maybe I should call them B & P) looked like they were having a ball. Still knee-deep and in the midst of looking over blueprints, hiring staff and supervising kitchen equipment installs for this top of the line operation, they agreed they love getting input from the ground up. They also have their work cut out for them in the future with luxury hotel and condo food service demands 24-7. Uffdah! Maybe we should give them an insider’s nickname of P&F with B&P—that looks like a text message. I can’t wait to come back and toast their opening and “birthday” soon. Cheers and keep up the good work.