Outlook 2009: Weird?

While other folks took real holidays and didn’t commit a particle of thought to their vacated work environs, your humble FSN Editor kept his mind mostly in the game. Hard not to—wherever he goes (including the gym) he runs into some industry folks and kibitzes about the latest hoo-ha. And there’s plenty of that on tap for 2009, so it seems.

But your humble Editor won’t speculate on closings or other catastrophes-in-waiting until he or his spies verify the facts. It was reported during the holiday break that Three Fish in Minneapolis shut its doors. That could be one of many bars and restaurants in the early part of the year, said one fella in-the-know to the Editor, as liquor license fees become due.

Still, it’s an odd one out there. The Editor yakked with FSN columnist and consulting chef Jonathan Locke, who is currently managing the kitchen at Mairin’s Table in Northeast Minneapolis. The holiday break was “weird,” he said, alternating between crazy busy and dead. The steady foot-traffic trickle between the two extremes is gone, according to Locke and some other folks.

What to make of it? It’s anyone’s guess. Economic geeks out there are pointing long fingers at the big banks, that, now flush with government cash, aren’t doling out like they’ve been asked to grease the recovery gears. Some of those geeks are also beginning to point fingers at consumers who are holding out on buying stuff, waiting for the really great deal—an act that cumulatively leads to deflation. The latter accusation is a tough pill to swallow. While the Editor is thankfully still employed, and technically still able to spend his paycheck as he would before the economic collapse, his comfort level to dole it out has ebbed (after all, he’s married to a school teacher whose district of employ is facing a $4 million deficit, and tenured staff is on the chopping block). He makes his choices, pads his meager savings account and its meager .0002 percent interest rate.

But he still goes out to eat, which is a much more satisfying experience to him than any flat screen, digital television could provide. But he doesn’t do it as casually as he once did, thereby adding to the evaporation of the steady-trickle business mentioned above. He picks his evening out and packs a lunch. This is what many people are doing. Restaurants are adapting to this trend, cutting hours or eliminating lunch service altogether.

It’s important for restaurateurs to make calls like that, and the successful operators are making them as an offensive move, rather than down the line as a defensive measure when the ship is listing. Mairin’s Table in Northeast Minneapolis lopped lunch from the schedule a good while back, seeing the writing on the wall, and is taking the money they’re not losing to spend on the dinner menu which, based on a very good meal the Editor recently ate there, is an investment that will pay off both immediately and into the coming year. Nick and Eddie in Minneapolis also lopped lunch for the winter—which caused momentary trauma to the Editor, but it’s a smart business move.

It wasn’t long ago that the viral-like expansion of chain restaurants where independent eateries once stood was the topic du jour. The new topic for these times is the independent operator’s adaptability, and therefore their advantage versus chains in 2009.

While this appears to be a big dip in the road, like all dips, this one, too, shall pass.

—Mike Mitchelson, editor, Foodservice News

Dino’s delivers holiday spirit, food to homeless

The holiday spirit thrives. Earlier in December, Dino’s, The Greek Place founders Dino and Vona Adamidis and a crew from their local restaurant chain served meals to Minneapolis’ homeless.
Dino’s donated and served 500 gyro sandwiches at Sharing and Caring Hands in Minneapolis, and the supply was quickly exhausted. The Adamidis also donated a check to the non-profit homeless shelter. The event was part of two annual events Dino’s holds to benefit the shelter. The company for the last seven years has held an annual golf tournament during the summer, and served the meal as the holiday season nears. The tournament has raised more than $25,000 for Sharing and Caring Hands during that time.

The line for the donated Dino’s meals, served by Dino and Vona Adamidis and their crew, wrapped around the cafeteria at Sharing & Caring Hands in Minneapolis. Five hundred gyros were donated.

Mary Jo Copeland, center, founder and director of Sharing and Caring Hands, received a generous donation check from Dino and Vona Adamidis (to the right and left of Copeland, respectively) and crew. Dino’s has served meals and raised money for the organization for seven years.

—Mike Mitchelson, editor, Foodservice News

Baskin leaves Red Stag Supper Club

Foodservice News spies heard a rumor (and also saw a want ad for the position) a while back indicating that Red Stag Supper Club Executive Chef Bill Baskin was leaving the kitchen. Baskin confirmed that he was, but made his official announcement today via e-mail: “Saturday, December 14 was my last night in the kitchen at the Red Stag Supper Club,” he wrote. “After almost two years of working in the restaurant (including design, construction and development before opening), the timing felt right to depart. Everything is currently running smoothly at Red Stag, and I am extremely pleased with the way the restaurant has progressed.”

Baskin also wrote that his next move is “planning an independent project” while he works as a charcutier/sausage maker at the new Seward Co-op in Minneapolis, set to open its doors with a ribbon-cutting ceremony on January 8, 2009.

Baskin was involved in a lot of “firsts” at the Red Stag. The restaurant, built within a Northeast Minneapolis warehouse, was the state’s first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)-certified restaurant, which included much technology and deep thought into the kitchen—a subject written about in the March 2008 issue of FSN. It’s not only environmental awareness for which Baskin is known, his impressive culinary resume includes the prestigous Fat Duck in England and, locally, Cosmos. He quickly established himself as one of the top toques in town with his work at the Red Stag.

—Mike Mitchelson, editor, Foodservice News

Frightful weather out there

Yeah, and I’m not just talking about the recent climate events. I’ve taken a couple days off here and there to take care of a few long-overdue home and home technology repairs. Those who know me understand I’m not a fella who delights in shopping. But trekking around the Twin Cities—particularly the urban core in which I live—for close observation is truly disturbing. Where suburbia still masks the decline somewhat with its malls, the street-level storefronts in the urban areas tell the story of what’s happening economically: It’s empty space after empty space. A guy might be smart to attempt to corner the “For Lease”-sign market.

Of course, we’re a magazine and blog dedicated to the foodservice industry, and, according to various folks I’ve spoken to, restaurant business as a whole took a nose dive in November. Particularly disturbing was a conversation I had with a liquor and wine rep this weekend at my gym. We began talking about a couple recent closings, and I asked the question, “Who’s hurting out there?”

“Everyone,” was the answer. “Absolutely every one of my clients, from all segments.”

While it might be true that no one can dodge the recession, there’s always room for the soundly-operated business to maneuver, take the hit, and rebound. The restaurateurs I speak with have thought out their moves for survival, and are closely looking at their operation for any waste. One thing they are not doing is hitting the panic button. Charles Senkler, the owner of Fabulous Fern’s in St. Paul, sent me the most succinct “Letter to the Editor” I’ve ever received: “Not much we can do about it except put it in the proper perspective.”

I think I’ll leave it at that.

—Mike Mitchelson, editor, Foodservice News

Top 25 Chefs & recipes, December issue at the FSN site

Finally. It’s done. Bundled with the December print version of Foodservice News is our book containing profiles and recipes from a peer-nominated group of the Top 25 Chefs in Minnesota. Take that, Food & Wine magazine, and your puny top 10 list. Here at Foodservice News, our loyal readers who peruse these pages know we cover THE ENTIRE INDUSTRY. And we know that there are many talented chefs out there—not only in restaurants—who deserve recognition.

How did we determine the top 25? In 2005 when FSN published a list of the top 10 restaurant chefs in the Twin Cities, I assembled a group of local food journalists—some contributed anonymously—to gather opinions and fret about who should be included. But this year, for the top 25 across the industry, who better to vote for the best than the industry itself? We sent out a series of e-mail blasts beginning in July to chefs, restaurant owners and selected industry types (and a few food journalists who were game to the rules) to pick who they thought deserved to be among a list of 25 top executive chefs in Minnesota. We also distributed the survey at our Restaurant Business Conference in September for attendees to fill out and return at the end of the day.

Here’s a summary of the survey:

• The chefs could be visionaries blazing new culinary trails, or those turning out great food day after day—both the well known and the unsung. The chefs could be in restaurants or country clubs, private schools or corporations.

• Each respondent could nominate four executive chefs, two of whom they thought are the top chefs working in Minnesota, and two they believed operate below the radar and deserve more recognition for their skills. These chefs could be working in restaurants, country clubs, hotels, a corporation or other settings.

• If the respondent was a chef, they could not nominate themselves, or anyone they employed. If the respondent was a restaurant owner or employee, they couldn’t nominate anyone on their staff. Respondents could submit any comments about the chefs.

So, that was it. And here are the results. The listings as they appear aren’t a ranking. There are many of the usual suspects who populate any top chef list printed in consumer publications, but there are also many new names, including those who work out of the general public’s awareness. Many other chefs were right on the margin of being included on this list—what was most encouraging about the survey is how many chefs are being recognized by their peers for the their hard work.

Thanks to all who participated in the survey, and to the nominated chefs who took the time to be interviewed and submit a recipe. Conversations with those chefs was wide ranging, and what follows this introduction on the Web site and the print edition is a few more interesting tidbits from those conversations. Feedback is, of course, welcome. Contact me via e-mail at mmitchelson@foodservicenews.net.

Oh, and if you want your very own copy of the Top 25 Chefs book (which includes recipes from the chefs), download it at the FSN Web site. Here’s the list.

—Mike Mitchelson, editor, Foodservice News

FSN Top 25 2008
• Isaac Becker: 112 Eatery, Minneapolis.
• Steven Brown: Porter & Frye, Minneapolis.
• Filippo Caffari: I Nonni, Lilydale
• Virgil Emmert: Oak Ridge Hotel and Conference Center.
• Richard Fisher: Mystic Lake Casino, Prior Lake.
• Vincent Francoual: Vincent-A Restaurant, Minneapolis.
• JD Fratzke: The Strip Club Meat & Fish, St. Paul.
• Scott Graden: New Scenic Café, Duluth.
• Mark Hanson: Marx Wine Bar & Grill, Stillwater.
• Erick Harcey: Nicollet Island Inn, Minneapolis.
• Michael Harper: Wildside Catering, St. Paul.
• Tim McKee: La Belle Vie, Minneapolis.
• John Occhiato: D’Amico Cucina, Minneapolis.
• Scott Pampuch: Corner Table, Minneapolis.
• Alex Roberts: Alma, Brasa; Minneapolis.
• Hector Ruiz: El Meson, Café Ena, Indio; Minneapolis.
• Lenny Russo: Heartland, St. Paul.
• Don Saunders: Fugaise, Minneapolis.
• Ferris Schiffer: Minikahda Club, Minneapolis.
• Tanya Siebenaler: Sapor Café & Bar, Minneapolis.
• Stephen Trojahn: Cosmos/Graves 601, Minneapolis.
• Sameh Wadi: Saffron Restaurant & Lounge, Minneapolis.
• Lucia Watson: Lucia’s Restaurant & Wine Bar, Minneapolis.
• Stewart Woodman: Heidi’s, Minneapolis.
• Koshiki Yonemura: Tanpopo Noodle Shop, St. Paul.


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